Modification Links:^*

• Lowering Your VFR800 or How to Make Your Legs Feel Longer

• Adding a Car Alarm or Put the Ignition Punch Down, Step Away From the Bike, and Nobody Gets Hurt

• Adding Hazard Lights or Sir, The Lights Are Blinking and Flashing... Flashing and Blinking

• Wiring Up Rear Turn Signals to Act as Marker Lights (Like the Front) or For the Love of God Don't Hit Me

• Changing Your Side Markers or I Don't Want to Ride a Huffy

• Changing Your Horn or Land Yacht... Coming Through

• Securing Your Jackets and Non D-Ring Helmets or Is It Safe?  Is It Safe?!?

• Invisible and Removable Tank Protection or Scratches... We Don't Need No Stinking Scratches, Man

• Adding a Vista Cruise Throttle Lock or I Feel the Need... The Need for Steady Speed

• PAIR Valve, Variable Air Intake Valve and Snorkel or I Don't Want to Hear It... The EPA's Energy Star Program Approved a Gas Powered Alarm Clock...

• Exhaust Baffle Removal or Can You Hear Me Now?

• Make your VFR a True Solo Seat or How Often Do You Ride Two Up?

• Resources... We Have Resources?

• My VFR's Specifications or Do You Really Care at This Point???

^*Note:  The information on this page is not intended as instructional.  I am not a professional mechanic nor do I play one on TV, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.  These modifications can be dangerous and even deadly if improperly implemented.  You should always consult a Honda certified mechanic for all modifications.  I accept no liability for any use or misuse of this site (no good deed goes unpunished).  This fine print brought to you by the Law Offices of Dewey, Cheatem & Howe.     "I'm not even supposed to be here today."  --Dante Hicks, Clerks

Hazard Lights

  
Run-time:  0:24, 6.3MB

Why don't motorcycles have hazard lights (OK, 2004+ VFR's now have them)?  This one is easy.  You need a two prong flasher relay from any automotive store, two diodes (NTE5812 Rectifier Diode, 6A 100V is what i used but any 4A 50V diode or better should do), and a switch (switch is optional as you can just unplug the wire from the flasher under the seat when not in use).  Using removable wire leads, take power from the battery with a post connector (battery +) and run that wire to a switch if you would like or one of the flasher posts using a removable wire connector.  Connect another removable wire lead to the other flasher post (you can hardwire this but then replacing the flasher will be a pain) and split that wire into two runs by soldering the wire to the two diodes to make a split be sure to insulate the diodes with tape or a heat shrink wire tubing.  The diodes allow electricity to flow in only one direction, use a multi-meter to make sure the diodes are allowing current to flow from the flasher toward the turn signals and not the other way round.  The diodes prevent the left and right turn signals from cross energizing each other during normal operation.  Now you have two diodes connected to one wire from the flasher.  Run one diode to the left blinker wire and the other gets spliced into the right blinker wire.  Splicing into the rear turn signals will energize the front as well.  You can disconnect the power wire from the flasher relay and tuck the wires away under the seat (see video above) or you can run a switch between the battery and the flasher to make things a little easier to access.  Be sure to use wire heat shrink wrap or electrical tape to insulate all your connections and diodes.  My thought on the hazard lights were that if you are on the side of the road, you cannot leave your lights on for long without draining the battery.  The hazards will give you the protection of being seen without draining the battery by running the headlights.  Adding a switch and hiding it up under the dash gives you the ability to turn on the hazards when you want, rather than having to go under the seat to connect the flasher.

Total Time:  45 Minutes
Total Cost:  ~$10 for Flasher, Wire, and Diodes